Spotlight:Nike “ColorDry” – Sustainable Innovation?

Nike “ColorDry” : Breakthrough or PR stunt?

This week, our spotlight is a bit different again. It’s not a company as a whole, we focus on, but its way of innovating sustainable. Make up you’re mind whether Nike hit or missed it!

Described as a “manufacturing revolution” by CEO Mark Parker, Nike recently unveiled its latest initiative in making their production process more sustainable, notably by removing water from the dying procedure of their fabrics. By taking an important stake in Dutch start-up DyeCoo Textile Systems B.V and working closely with their Taiwanese producer Far Eastern New Century Corp., Nike aims to drastically reduce its need for water. Using recyclable CO2, the swoosh brand hopes to forgo the estimated 100-150 liters of water currently needed to process one kilo of textile.

In a recent press release, the three partners praised this innovation, stating that “compared to traditional dyeing methods, the ColorDry process reduces dyeing time by 40%, energy use by around 60% and the required factory footprint by a quarter. It’s also the most saturated, intense and consistent color we’ve seen”. The announcement sent waves through the industry, and archrival Adidas has already announced investments in similar techniques for its own supply chains.

Is it too good to be true? A recent article in the Tapei Times[1] questions the recent press release by Nike. It points to the fact that a waterless dyeing machine costs about 3.3 million dollars, 10 times the price of a traditional dyeing machine. This in turn explains why this type of process only counts for 1 to 2 percent of Far Eastern New Century Corp’s dyeing capacity. Furthermore, and most importantly, the article points to a major shortcoming in the dying process, overlooked in the Nike press release: “the water-free dyeing technology can only be used to dye polyester, and Far Eastern New Century and DyeCoo are still working on applying the technology to dyeing nylon and cotton”.

While we won’t accuse Nike of greenwashing just yet, it seems as though the miracle solution isn’t as miraculous as it may be on first sight. The technology behind the announcement certainly is interesting and we can only hope the new spotlight will bring new investors and partners into the mix, but Nike has a long way to go before being able to boast an environmentally friendly chain production.

What do you think about it, let us know!